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Jane Jacobs, Georgia OKeeffe, and the Power of the Marimekko Dress

In 1944, Bernard Rudofsky curated an influentialexhibition at the Museum of Modern Art called “ Are Clothes Modern? ” that explored, among other themes, the painting of skin, the binding offlesh, and the sculpting of hair through the ages and across cultures.In terms of women’s dress, the exhibit came down firmly on the side offreedom. “The more helpless a woman, the more attractive she is supposedto be to man. To keep her from moving freely, he hampers her walk withanklets, stilts, hobble skirts and heels,” read the wall text. To find asolution, Rudofsky recruited the designer Claire McCardell to create stylish garments made from large rectangles of cloth: unlikethe wardrobe fitted to the body, and ruled by etiquette, these clothescould be inexpensively made, folded and rolled for storage, and reusedfor other garments. As he saw it, “they would end our artificialcategories (white tie, black tie, afternoon, etc.)” and make us again“aware of the inherent beauty of uncut materials.” O’Keeffe also owned a number of McCardell dresses. McCardell’s clothesfor the market, rather than the museum, were already roomy, simple, anddesigned for activity, ranging from playsuits to denim, with bigpockets, wide skirts, and wrapped tops. Her models wore flats.Newspapers called it the “American look.” O’Keeffe’s McCardells, whichhave full skirts and belts, and little bows at the neck, were purchasedfrom department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman.They are more formal to our eye than Marimekko’s paper-doll shapes, butaimed for the same modern woman a decade earlier. If O’Keeffe liked adress she had it copied, making her own intellectual’s uniform beforeshe could buy the Marimekkos. This happens to be an excellent moment for New Yorkers to gaze uponclothing that, as Rudofsky advocated, embraces squares, triangles, andcircles rather than some idealized human form. O’Keeffe’s clothes at theBrooklyn Museum, mostly confined to a palette of white and black, standout from the gallery’s white walls like silhouettes.

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